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A simple unpainted kit from Provence Moulage, note few parts and simple shape
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Body is mainly flat surfaces.
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Simple chassis with little to detail paint.
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Again simple decal scheme which does not have to adapt to complex curves.
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Very basic instructions typical of many early kits.
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Remove flash with sharp modeling knife.
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Blow holes may be found on lower surfaces of resin models.
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Open up de blow holes so them are easier to fill.
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Filler for blow holes from your local auto parts dealer.
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Mix two parts well
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A cocktail stick is a simple and disposable applicator.
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These few simple tool are all you will require to prepare your model
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Simple paint stand from scrap bits.
Parts to be painted are attached with bluetack
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File away casting sprues and flash from parts before painting.
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Dust, the greatest enemy to a good finish. Resin dust is toxic and should be kept to a minimum.
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Hoover it away regularly
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When set trim excess away with straight blade.
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Trim away thin layers, blade must be very sharp
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Excess has been trimmed away in thin layers
Final sanding is kept to minimum and thus the shape of body will not be sanded away and changed
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Ready to finish with 1200 grit wet n dry paper
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Clean up!!!!!
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Blow hole is smoothly merged into body shape
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Adjustable paint stand see gadgets and gizmos for details of construction
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Paint stand attaches to chassis mounting
Holes in body
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Body screwed to stand ready for washing before painting. It is now hands free and free from finger grease contamination.
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Period wire wheels were seldom chrome. The "knock off" may come off without damage or mask it with a little bluetack.
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Clean with washing up liquid and jiff with an old toothbrush.
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Washing up liquid removes the grease while jiff slightly "scuffs" the surface to give a key for the paint.
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Scrub well with plenty of soap mix and warm water. Ensure to get into panel lines and other depressions.
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Do not forget under wheel arches
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Once cleaned water will cover the body evenly without "dry" patches. Water will run away from any greasy areas.
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A warm spot to dry the model before painting, in this case the kitchen range.
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Cover with a cardboard box to keep in warm air and keep out dust.
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Plastic primer warmed in baby bottle warmer.
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Simple extractor system for paint fumes and overspray dust. Keeps the house free from paint smells and the wife and family happy!!
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First coat of primer is a very thin mist coat, the resin colour can still be seen.
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Mist coat allowed to dry one minute, then a flood coat is applied, the mist coat created an initial "bond" and allows one to see defects in the surface preparation.
The flood coat adheres without fisheye as the mist coat is still "tacky"
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Panhard chassis ready for flood coat, black resin colour still apparent.
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Flood coat creates wet shiny look, should be just short of running. It takes practice.
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Flood coat when first applied almost "Drowns" detail but dries and shrinks.
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Wet look of flood primer coat. Will dry matt.
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White primer was used on Gordini as pale blue colour coat will cover better.
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The body is painted in the same way as it was primed . One mist coat then a flood coat. This is the finish and no polishing has been done.
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The body is given a light polish Finesse-it
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The base was painted with Humbrol enamels and good quality brushes.
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Grips make painting small parts much easier
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Research for model of this period is often difficult. Period news film suggests dash is body colour and wheel rim pale blue.
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Paint the belts and headlights bases.
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Matt black under wheel arches gives a feeling of depth to the model and sets off the wire spoke wheels.
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Painting black areas can be fairly rough
Polish off over painted areas when dry.
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Excess paint will polish off
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Matt black interior where visible
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After polishing
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Excess paint has been polished away.
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This was an old kit and the tyres has gone hard. Old tyres often split, they were replaced with a set from some BBR wheels
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Look for the mould point and put this on the inside of the rim.
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Finished wheel and tyre.
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Fix one wheel to axle and then try in place and mark length, mark it slightly long and then trim until the complete axle looks "right" when positioned in body.
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A needle file can be used to cut the axle and then used to carefully file until the desired length.
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Fix second wheel to axle with both mould marks to the inside and in a similar position.
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After trying the completed axel, it was decided the model sat too high, the axel slots were deepened. Remember to clean up before proceeding.
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The axels are glued in place with a little 5 minute epoxy, before it sets check the model looks right and all four wheels are contacting a flat surface. When happy with appearance leave to set.
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After axels have set, the base can be screwed in place.
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Lights and radiator
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Radiator is chromed resin, carefully file away sprue with a needle file.
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The center of the back of the radiator was cut back at the edges to ensure a good fit in the body.
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Contact adhesive has been applied thickly to the screen frame. Leaving it still on the fret makes it easier to handle.
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Firmly press screen frame to acetate sheet and clamp between to flat surfaces. The excess glue has squeezed out but leave it for now.
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After about half an hour the excess glue can be "rolled" away with a cocktail stick.
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The contact adhesive between the screen frame and screen has enough "give" to allow the screen to be bent and secured in place with contact adhesive. The contact adhesive will not affect the paint finish and excess can be removed as before.
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This was and old deleted kit and the decals were old. Old decals often crack and brake up in water.
Try a single decal first on a wet sponge.
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Only the number on the tail had to be adapted to any great double curvature. Microsol is a softener which will soften and shrink the decal, here the last few wrinkles have yet to conform.
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Little details make the difference. When the decal is dry carefully run a very sharp blade along the panel line and with a little Microsol adapt the decal into the panel line. After all you may need to open the boot!!
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